My Rediscovery of Beijing

China has re-emerged as a popular tourism destination thanks in part to the country now offering visa on arrival for a lot of countries; excellent connectivity from Southeast Asia make many Chinese cities attractive even for shorter visits. Many visitors are returning now, being impressed by what they have found in a country that has embraced tourism.

Although China has always been a popular travel destination, there are still some areas that will offer a curious traveller the opportunity for some exploration. Re-visiting Beijing after 25 years, the changes have been significant, and positively so. My very first moment that has taken me aback was the arrival at the new airport. Or more precisely stepping out of the building where a clear, blue sky with crisp air greeted me instead of a murky, unsightly dome of pollution that has once been a part of China’s capital.

Maybe Beijing really ought to promote itself more as a destination. During the month of March, the streets are lined with blossoming Cherry trees. It actually felt like that there is more of that in Beijing than in the fabled cities of Osaka and Kyoto. It makes for an extraordinary sight, something that was rather unexpected. While decades ago, a stroll would have been a rather bizarre idea, today, sidewalks and car-free areas invite to take in these sights. Bicycles are still a dominating sight in Beijing, however, nowadays they are oftentimes electric and offered as pay-as-you-go service, activated by using an app.

Beijing is in many ways a cultural centre. In order to get a dose of that, two activities should be considered to be made compulsory stops. The first being a visit to the Summer Palace. Especially those enjoying a good Chinese Soap Opera set in ancient China will find a guided tour particularly interesting as many facts revealed by the guides link to the stories we find on TV. It is a stunning setting, which may be best enjoyed in the wee hours of the day before it gets crowded. The way the sun rises, playing on the thousands of painted panels will make it worthwhile to get moving early in the day. The malls can wait; this is far more intriguing.

The second stop should be a visit to a Hutong. Luckily, those in power have realised that the traditional Hutongs are cultural treasures that need to be conserved as showcases of culture and communities. There are a number of them scattered around Beijing and they vary in their architecture: Their length can vary from 20 meters to 6.5 kilometres; some are as narrow as 40 cm or as wide as 32 meters. Typically, one can find delicious foods in the small restaurants lining the Hutongs. One should not be shy to try. Getting around has become much easier, thanks to modern technology. No longer will one be required to speak the language to motivate a taxi driver to steer to the desired destination. Only certain places may require the help of a local to enter the Chinese characters into “Didi” their local version of a ride-hailing App.

No visit to Beijing would be complete without a visit to the Great Wall. With over 20 000 kilometres in length, there is plenty of that to see. Recently, there have been photos circulating of overcrowded segments of the Great Wall of China and I suppose that does happen. Badaling, which may be synonymous with the Great Wall, is not just one destination. Passing the main area of Badaling, one will find a second area within the area labelled with this name that can be devoid of people.

I could only assume that this particular section of the wall was not very popular with tourists as there is a bit of a hike from the car park to the first stairs into the fortification. However, the cherry blossom lining the path are a magical sight that reward for the effort. The construction seems to have become one with nature as a specific species of moss is said to grow on the Great Wall, protecting it from erosion. On that day, being the only person on this segment of the wall, the might of the undertaking of building the defences became clear again. Standing atop of the first of seven watchtowers, the wall stretched far, sitting on the edges of the hills, as far as one could see. Climbing the steep steps in stunned silence almost became a meditation. Traversing this refurbished segment of the wall with its seven watchtowers would take several hours. There is a lot to learn about and from the Great Wall of China: I will need to return soon again.

Of course, when in Beijing, one has to have a duck! This popular dish has since made more accessible with chain restaurants now making the Peking Duck more accessible to the masses. The culinary scene of Beijung is, of course, impressive. However, I found that the little shops interspersed with the housing estates are most intriguing. Casual and tasty, there is a variety of food stuffs that is delicious, yet very economical. It may take a little getting used to, however, another must try is Beiju. Available in supermarkets and specialty shops, this spirit comes in elaborate and intricate packaging, making it the perfect gift to bring home. The one bottle that may have left me speechless, as it was that unexpected, was in the shape of a nuclear submarine.

The two visits may have been 25 years apart, however, each have been exploration of places. It would be fair to say that in both instances, Beijing has been taking me by surprise. Today, this modern city will surely exceed expectations of those that would want to get a taste of China. While the Great Wall of China was build to keep people out, maybe today, it is a symbol of how the city would like to keep us inside, to continue to explore?